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Review Neulii AHA Vita Brightening Serum

Para português, clique aqui.

I have received three serums from Neulii to try, in exchange for an honest and unbiased review.

For those that don’t know about the brand, Neulii is owned by RoseRoseShop, a global Korean cosmetic site that started with two eBay shops, rubyruby108 and bringbringshop, back in 2008. In 2009, rubyruby108 was renamed to rubyruby76. In 2014, they started a new eBay shop, roseroseau. In 2015, rubyruby76 was hacked and changed its name to elley2008. Fortunately, in 1 day they recovered it and renamed it back to rubyruby76. Also, in the same year, bringbringshop was hacked (what a bad luck!) and its name was changed to susinsusin2008. But again, in 1 day, they recovered it and changed the name back to bringbringshop. In 2016, rubyruby76 was renamed to roseroseshop.

Below you can find what I’ve previously explained.

TOM_history.jpg

Neulii was launched in March 2016 and five serums came with.

Aloe BHA Soothing Serum

A gel-type serum that helps in recovering roughened and sensitive skin. Contains natural BHA and aloe, excellent for calming skin.
8542_Neulii_Aloe_BHA_Soothing_Serum.jpg

This serum contains 0.05% of betaine salicylate, 10% of Salix alba (Willow) bark water, aloe vera leaf water and more. It also has an alkaline pH (7.7). It very high for a serum that is supposed to “exfoliate without any skin irritation to make smooth skin”. Please, Neulii, consider lowering the pH of this serum, because it’s not only ineffective for its exfoliation proprieties but it also can be harmful to the skin.

[Ingredient list]
Water, Salix Alba(Willow) Bark Water, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Panthenol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Betaine Salicylate(0.05%), Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Hyaluronate.

Greentea BHA Pore Tightening Serum

Highly enriched serum containing concentrated green tea and natural BHA extracts. Removes pore expansion caused by excessive sebum, and helps maintain pore contraction.
8543_Neulii_Greentea_BHA_Pore_Tightening

This serum contains 10% of Salix alba (Willow) bark water, green tea extract, arginine, allantoin, lemon peel oil and more. It’s supposed to tighten the pores. It has a pH around 6.6 which makes it not an exfoliator. It would be good if Neulii could also make it more acidic.

[Ingredient list]

Water, Salix Alba(Willow) Bark Water, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Cassia Obtusifolia Seed Extract, Arginine, Allantoin, Carbomer,  Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil , Menthyl Lactate, Mentha Haplocalix Extract.

AHA VITA Brightening Serum

Brightening serum that makes skin vigorous and glossy with an ideal amount of natural AHA, exfoliating ingredient and Vitamin C.

8541_Neulii_AHA_Vita_Brightening_Serum

This serum contains 10% of apple fruit water, 10% of sea buckthorn water, 1.5% of glycolic acid and 0.001% (yes, ONLY 0.001%) of ascorbyl acid. This is the most acidic serum among all of them. Its pH is around 3.8, which makes it perfect!

[Ingredient list]
Water, Pyrus Malus(Apple) Fruit Water, Hippophae Rhamnoides Water, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycolic Acid, Betaine, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Hydroxide,  Xanthan Gum, Ascorbic Acid.

Teatree BHA Blemish Control Serum
A serum containing natural BHA and tea tree ingredient, arranging sebum control and dead skin cells to prevent skin trouble.

8545_Neulii_Teatree_BHA_Blemish_Control.jpg

This is one of the serums I’ve got. It contains 10% of Salix alba (Willow) bark water, 7% of Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree) leaf water, 0.2% of betaine salicylate and more.

It has a pH of 4.2, which allows the betaine salicylate, sodium lactate, including lactic acid to do their job. It will be the second Neulii product I am going to be reviewing

[Ingredient list]

Water, Salix Alba(Willow) Bark Water, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Water, Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Lactate , PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Lactic Acid , Hydroxyethylcellulose ,Betaine Salicylate(0.2%) ,  Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Cassia Obtusifolia Seed Extract, Panthenol, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate,  Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil.

Snail Bee Anti-Wrinkle Serum

A serum containing snail slime and propolis extract to assist anti-aging and wrinkle care.

8544_Neulii_Snail_Bee_Anti_Wrinkle_Serum

This serum contains both 10% of propolis extract and 10% of snail slime. Adenosine (anti-aging ingredient) is also included in the formula. This product has a pH around 6.6 (could be less, but it’s ok). It will be the third (and last) one I’ll be reviewing. I just started using it.

[Ingredient list]
Water, Butylene Glycol, Snail Secretion Filtrate, Propolis Extract, Betaine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Allantoin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Carbomer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol,  Arginine, Adenosine.

Now that I’ve explained a bit about all the serums, I am going to review the first one.

AHA Vita Brightening Serum

As it’s been said before, this serum is supposed to make your skin glowy and vivid supported by the apple fruit water, which contains natural AHA, sea buckthorn water, glycolic acid and ascorbic acid.

IMG-20170520-WA0000

The amount of ascorbic acid in this serum is ridiculously low (0.001%). Maybe (I said maybe) this amount of ascorbic acid can decrease the pH level. So it might be useful, but I doubt it.

Ingredient list

Water, Pyrus Malus(Apple) Fruit Water, Hippophae Rhamnoides Water, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycolic Acid, Betaine, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Hydroxide,  Xanthan Gum, Ascorbic Acid.

Analyse of some ingredients

Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Water: It may contain quercetin, mineral substances, enzymes, fruit acids, amino acids, vitamins, tannins, pectin, sugars. Apple contains small concentrations of ascorbic and malic acids. Malic acid is a type of AHA. It has exfoliant proprieties that make your skin smoother;

Hippophae rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Water:  A plant native to the cold-temperate regions of Europe and Asia. It’s loaded with antioxidants, including vitamins C (which exceed the amounts of lemons and oranges) and E, carotenes. Sea buckthorn has anti-microbial, antioxidant, tissue regenerationcytoprotective properties;

Butylene Glycol: Skin conditioning agent;

1,2-Hexanediol:  A highly effective and mild coupling agent and humectant. It contains many chemicals in its composition, including: Alpha-Lipoic acids, an antioxidant; Chrysin, an anti-inflammatory bioflavonoid; Diosgenin, a maintainer of healthy blood cholesterol levels; Glucosamine Hydrochloride, which slows joint degeneration; and Indole-3-Carbinol, a nutrient that may prevent cancer (Source);<

Glycolic Acid: Glycolic acid is the smallest α-hydroxy acid (AHA). It may reduce wrinkles, acne scarring, hyperpigmentation and improve many other skin conditions, including actinic keratosis, hyperkeratosis, and seborrheic keratosis. Once applied, glycolic acid reacts with the upper layer of the epidermis, weakening the binding properties of the lipids that hold the dead skin cells together. This allows the stratum corneum to be exfoliated, exposing live skin cells (Source).

This formula contains 1.5% concentration, which is veeeeery gentle. A glycolic acid product with this concentration can (and should) be used twice a day for faster effects;

Betaine: It is an amino acid and primarily functions as a humectant and anti-irritant. It can also temporarily decrease deep wrinkles, making the face smoother. It’s capable of giving superior hydration to the skin, without leaving residue like glycerin based products;

Panthenol:  This study showed that Panthenol-containing formulations (1.0% and 5.0%) produced significant decreases in TEWL (transepidermal water loss) after 30-day applications.

Panthenol has been reported to produce a number of skin benefits. In particular, panthenol promotes wound healing, helps restore damaged epithelium, reduces itching and inflammation, improves skin hydration, reduces transepidermal water loss, improves skin roughness, and more. It is not entirely clear how panthenol achieves all these effects. Most likely, much of it is due to conversion of panthenol to vitamin B5 (aka pantothenic acid), a component of coenzyme A, which has multiple metabolic functions in the body: aid in cellular energy production; metabolism of proteins, fats and carbohydrates; synthesis of fatty acids, steroids, glucose, acetylcholine and so forth (Source);

Sodium Hyaluronate: The salt form of hyaluronic acid, a water-binding ingredient that has the ability to fill the spaces between collagen and elastin. Sodium hyaluronate has been used for moisturization and wound healing since its discovery, it can hold up to 1000 its own weight in water;

Hydroxyethylcellulose: A plant-derived amino acid used as a preservative, binder, emulsifier and/or thickener in beauty products;

Sodium Hydroxide: A pH adjuster;

Xanthan Gum: A polysaccharide derived from glucose or sucrose. It’s able to increase the viscosity of liquids. It can also have skin-conditioning properties;

Ascorbic Acid: Ascorbic acid has shown to have many functions like increase the collagen synthesis, protection of the skin against the effects of ultraviolet B and ultraviolet A radiation, inhibition of melanogenesis, stimulation of ceramide synthesis, stimulation of cytokeratin synthesis. Since this formula contains only 0.001%, you CANNOT expect any of these effects from ascorbic acid.

Acne triggers according to Cosdna

Butylene Glycol is the only one. It strikes 1 out of 5.

Irritant according to Cosdna

None.

Safety according to Cosdna

All the ingredients except Glycolic Acid and Sodium Hydroxide are green flagged and strike 1. Sodium Hydroxide strikes 3 out of 9 and Glycolic Acid strikes 4 out of 9. Both are yellow flagged. There isn’t a single red flagged ingredient.

Packaging

The bottle comes inside a paper box. The bottle itself is made of resistant plastic and holds 100 mL (3.38 fl.oz) of serum. It’s a huge amount of liquid.
IMG-20170520-WA0001

It’s a pump bottle, which I personally love, and you can pump it directly to your face, to a cotton ball, or to your hands. I prefer pouring it down on my face, it’s very easy and you don’t waste cotton or lose liquid to the cotton.

IMG-20170520-WA0005

Texture and scent

The texture is very liquid and easily absorbed by the skin. You could easily call it a toner because of its features.

IMG-20170520-WA0004

Ok, behind this cute big serum bottle has something terrible hidden. The scent! Ewww. At the first time, I felt something like vinegar (maybe due to the apple water), but after the second time, I started to feel like it was slightly smelling puke. I even asked some people that have used this product to tell me what they felt and some of them told me it smells like stinky feet, formalin (I am not sure of formalin smells like, but I bet it’s not something pleasant), warmed plastic (?). Some people told me they don’t feel anything bad about this serum.

This serum is fragrance-free, so what I actually perceive is a scent made of the mix of all the ingredients.
Anyway, being fragrance-free is a plus for so many people who are allergic to perfume or simply want to avoid it. Since it’s made with natural ingredients, you will possibly witness a difference in the smell and/or in the color of it.

P.S.: As long as you don’t sniff the serum, you won’t be able to feel the smell of it because it’s very light.

A serum with multi-functions

As you just saw, this serum has a watery texture and its pH is around 3.8, which means it’s acidic. If you are looking for a pH balancing toner, you can count on this serum. Its texture makes it easily absorbed and because it comes in a huge bottle, you can use it as a toner with no worry of running out of product quickly.

If you are using an ascorbic acid product (vit. C) that needs first an acid skin’s surface to improve its absorption and effect, you can prep your skin with this serum in order to achieve a low pH skin’s surface.

How to use

I advise you to use it AM and PM due to its non-greasy, non-sticky and high-absorbed texture. It’s a product that can be used both when it’s too hot or too cold.

Using both AM and PM, you’ll quickly achieve its benefits that include moisturization, toned skin, brightened skin, more vivid skin with a decent glow.

Performance

Below you can see the differences of my hand with and without the product. The first one is without the product…

IMG-20170520-WA0003

Below you can see the amount of product I have used…

IMG-20170520-WA0002

…and this one is my hand with the product on it.

IMG-20170520-WA0006

It instantly gives me a glowy skin just by applying one layer of the product. It also makes my skin moisturized, helps me fight against dark spots, gently exfoliates my skin and helps me prevent wrinkles because it’s loaded with natural antioxidants.

Final thoughts

If you are looking for a serum which can work as well as a pH balancing, brightening, and exfoliating toner, then I would suggest you consider this serum as an option.

It’s suitable for every skin type, even sensitive and oily because it uses minimal but yet effective ingredients and leaves no residue or stickiness, at all.

I am very happy with this serum, even though I would prefer a higher amount of ascorbic acid (at least 2 or 3%). It overcame what I expected.

Rate: 4.3/5

You can find Neulii products by clicking here.

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