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Review Thank You Farmer Sun Project Light Sun Essence

Para português, clique aqui.

Following with Thank You Farmer’s reviews, this is the second one. If you are new to my blog or my Instagram and don’t know yet, I have received a package from Thank You Farmer with some products to try and review with my own honest and unbiased thoughts.

The first product I’ve reviewed was Back to Iceland Peeling Cream, my first peeling cream ever. You can find the full review by clicking here.

The second product I am going to be reviewing right now is the Sun Project Light Sun Essence (Sun, Sun, Sun… lol) which is a sunscreen suitable for everyone that dislike stickiness, especially combination/oily skin.

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This sunscreen contains SPF50+ and PA+++.

Description

  • An attractive real moisture sun essence with an airy touch that resembles the hydration of spring showers and the freshness of spring breeze;
  • Fresh touch without stickiness;
  • An airy freshness without tightness or heaviness;
  • Effective sunscreen without excess whitening;
  • Contains natural extracts such as Phyto-oligo, inca omega oil (Plukenetia volubilis), Hollyhock extracts, and Lotus water.

What is PA?

PA is used in Asian countries like South Korea and Japan. PA means Protection Grade of UVA. UVA rays penetrate the skin deeper than UVB rays and cause skin aging. Also, UVA are the predominant tanning rays.

According to the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association, PA+ corresponds to a UVA (PPD*) protection factor between 2 and 4, PA++ between 4 and 8, and PA+++ more than 8. This system was revised in 2013 to include PA++++ which corresponds to a PPD of 16 or higher.

A PA 10, for example, means it’ll take 10 times longer for your skin to tan.

*“The Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD) is a method of measuring UVA protection, similar to the SPF method of measuring UVB light protection. It means that, theoretically, a sunscreen with a PPD value rating of 5 should permit tolerance of 5 times as much UVA as without protection.” (Source)

Ingredient list

This sunscreen has quite a long ingredient list full of plant extracts and some skin-friendly ingredients to support anti-aging and oil-control efficacy. Below you can find the full ingredient list directly from the packaging, typed by me.

Water, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Homosalate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Butylene Glycol, Octocrylene, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cyclopentasiloxane, C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate, C20-22 Alcohols, Silica, 1,2-Hexanediol, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Water, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Lipids, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Tromethamine, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Octyldodecanol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Caprylyl Glycol, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyisobutene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Cellulose Gum, Sorbitan Oleate, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Fragrance.

P.S.: I always type the ingredient list myself, whenever I can. I don’t completely trust some sources (but the official website, of course) because I’ve been a victim of some mistakes, let me quickly explain. I was about to buy a product from a brand whose ingredient list couldn’t be found on its official website, so I went to Cosdna looking for the complete ingredient list and I found it. One of the first ingredients was mineral oil and at that time, I had oily skin and was avoiding everything that could possibly break me out. Months later, the product became famous and I found its full ingredient list in so many places and guess what? It wasn’t mineral oil… it was mineral water! Totally different!

Analysis of some ingredients

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate: Also called Octyl Methoxycinnamate, it is an active ingredient in OTC sunscreen products;

Homosalate: Homosalate is an ester salicylic acid used as a sunscreen ingredient against UVB rays. It’s weak and must be used in combination with other UV filters. Homosalate is limited to 10% in Europe.

The European Union’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Products reported that Homosalate poses no risk in respect to eye or skin irritation;

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate: Marketed as Uvinul A Plus by BASF, this ingredient is used in sunscreen to absorb UVA radiation. It has an excellent photostability and compatibility with other UV filters and cosmetic ingredients;

Butylene Glycol: Skin conditioning agent;

Octocrylene: It is an ester formed by the reaction of 3,3-diphenylcyanoacrylate with 2-ethylhexanol. It protects the skin from direct DNA damage by absorbing UVB and short-wave UVA rays. The ethylhexanol portion is a fatty alcohol, which adds emollience and water resistant property. It is highly stable, does not degrade in sunlight and also protects other UV blocking agents from UV-induced degradation;

Dicaprylyl Carbonate: A plant-derived fat. It works by providing a protective film and enhancing the lipid layer of the skin. It is often categorized as a dry emollient because it makes skin soft and smooth without a greasy residue. It emulsifies easily and facilitates the application of slow spreading ingredients, like Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, a sunscreen filter that is difficult to spread on the skin;

Cyclopentasiloxane: A silicone. It’s used mainly as a conditioner, delivery agent, lubricant and/or solvent. It forms a protective barrier on the skin. It’s said that it might temporary provide a “plumper skin” effect, by filling in lines and wrinkles;

C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate: An anionic emulsifier, used to give cosmetic formulations a matte finish. It’s been said that it also has the ability to function as a UV absorber and antioxidant;

C20-22 Alcohols: It is a mixture of synthetic aliphatic alcohols with 20 to 22 carbons in the alkyl chain. Works as emulsion stabilizer, binding agent, viscosity controlling;

Silica: Also known as Silicon Dioxide, works as an abrasive, anticaking, bulking, opacifying and suspending agent. It absorbs oil and moisture and it’s great for oily skins;

1,2-Hexanediol:  A highly effective and mild coupling agent and humectant. It contains many chemicals in its composition, including: Alpha-Lipoic acids, an antioxidant; Chrysin, an anti-inflammatory bioflavonoid; Diosgenin, a maintainer of healthy blood cholesterol levels; Glucosamine Hydrochloride, which slows joint degeneration; and Indole-3-Carbinol, a nutrient that may prevent cancer (Source);

Portulaca oleracea Extract: Known as Ma Chi Hyun in the traditional Korean medicine, it showed a variety of biomedical efficacies including those in anti-inflammation and anti-allergy. A study made with 10% ethanolic extract of the aerial parts (dried leaves and stem) showed significant anti-inflammatory and analgesic after intraperitoneal and topical but not oral administration when compared with the synthetic drug, diclofenac sodium as the active control.

This study showed the antioxidant properties of different cultivars of Portulaca oleracea and reported that they were capable of inhibiting lipid peroxidation.

The results of this study showed that Portulaca oleracea extracts have protective effects on UVB-induced apoptosis (cell death);

Nelumbo nucifera Flower Water: That’s the Sacred Lotus. In a study made with hydroalcoholic Nelumbo nucifera seeds, the extract exhibited strong free radical scavenging activity. Nelumbo nucifera’s seed extract showed  57% whitening effect and 49% elastase inhibition (anti-wrinkle effect), while adenosine indicated 26% inhibition (Nelumbo nucifera extracts as whitening and anti-wrinkle cosmetic agent). Nelumbo nucifera seeds contain alkaloids, saponins, phenols, and carbohydrates. I couldn’t find any study about the flower water but let’s hope it has similar properties as the extract of the seeds does;

Glycine soja (Soybean) Lipids: It’s rich in vitamins like vitamin E, vitamin B, and vitamin K. It’s a great source of linolenic acid. This oil helps the skin against UV rays and it’s also very effective for treating damage done by UV rays and air pollution. It also contains aglycone, an isoflavone that improves the appearance of aging skin;

Echium plantagineum Seed Oil: Echium oil is mainly composed of α-linolenic (30 – 33%) linoleic (14 – 18%), y-linolenic (10 – 13%), stearidonic (13 – 15%) oleic (14 – 17%), and palmitic (6 – 7%) acids. It’s a rich source of omega-6 and omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids. Echium oil contains stearidonic acid and gamma linolenic acid. Both of these fatty acids have been shown to exert anti-inflammatory activities. (Source);

Aloe barbadensis Leaf Extract: Aloe vera is a traditional medical plant whose gel has been widely used in skin care because it soothes sunburn, hydrates the skin, reduces the appearance of puffiness, protects the skin and so on. You can find a bunch of interesting studies on Pubmed.

This study reported the protective effects of aloe sterols (one of its active) against UVB-induced photoaging in hairless mice. It resulted in a significant improvement of UVB-induced skin dryness, epidermal thickness, and wrinkle formation.

Cutaneous wound healing is a complex process involving various regulatory factors at the molecular level. Aloe vera is widely used for cell rejuvenation, wound healing, and skin moisturizing. This study reported that Aloesin (from Aloe vera) accelerates skin wound healing. More importantly, aloesin treatment resulted in the activation of Smad and MAPK signaling proteins that are key players in cell migration, angiogenesis and tissue development;

Althaea rosea Flower Extract: Commonly known as Hollyhock, it’s a medicinal plant from China and Korea that has been traditionally used as an anti-inflammatory. An analysis of the flavonoid fraction from the hollyhock extract revealed the presence of quercetin (antioxidant, skin-soothing agent, and restorative ingredient) and kaempferol (anticancer, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, cytoprotective, and antiapoptotic activity);

Cardiospermum halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract: Used in cosmetics as a soothing (relieves itching) and anti-inflammatory, with particular effects on allergic rashes. Contains a high percentage of phytosterols and triterpenes.

Contains also a lot of compounds[1] such as quercetin (antioxidant, skin-soothing agent, and restorative ingredient), kaempferol (anticancer, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, cytoprotective, and antiapoptotic activity) , apigenin (antioxidant), chrysoeriol (which has been shown to be an effective inhibitor of the matrix metalloprotein that damages collagen and elastin and cause premature skin aging[2]), luteolin (prevents skin aging induced by ultraviolet light[3]), p-coumaric acid (a strong inhibitor of cellular melanogenesis[4]), hydroquinone (skin-lightening), protocatechuic acid (antioxidant activity, including inhibition of generation as well as scavenging of free radicals and upregulating antioxidant enzymes[5]), gallic acid (an antioxidant that has a strong antityrosinase activity [6]) and more.

  1. Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant flavonoids and phenols from Cardiospermum halicacabum (Dào Dì Líng);

  2. Effect of O-glycosilation on the antioxidant activity and free radical reactions of a plant flavonoid, chrysoeriol;

  3. Luteolin suppresses UVB-induced photoaging;

  4. Effects of p-coumaric acid on erythema and pigmentation of human skin exposed to ultraviolet radiation;

  5. Potential cancer chemopreventive activity of protocatechuic acid;

  6. Antimelanogenic and antioxidant properties of gallic acid;

Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil: It is a non-volatile, non-fragrant plant oil used as an emollient in cosmetics. It consists primarily of triglycerides of linoleic and oleic acids, and it’s an oil rich in vitamin E, making it a powerful antioxidant. Also,  it helps maintain the skin barrier and decreases transepidermal water loss;

Plukenetia volubilis Seed Oil: Known as Sacha inchi or Inca inchi, this oil contains potassium, magnesium, calcium, α-linolenic and linoleic acids, carotenoids, gallic acid, beta-carotene, Trolox (Source, Source);

Cetyl Alcohol: Please, do not get confused, this is not a drying alcohol. The truth is, this ingredient is the opposite of alcohol (ethanol), because it softens and conditions the skin and hair. It’s a fatty alcohol produced either from the end products of the petroleum industry or derived from plants. It works as an emollient, thickener, emulsifier and/or carrying agent;

Glyceryl Stearate: Derived from palm kernel, vegetable or soy oil and also found naturally in the human body, it acts as a lubricant, which gives the skin a soft and smooth appearance. It slows the loss of water from the skin by forming a barrier on the surface. Also, it has been shown to protect skin from free-radical damage;

Tromethamine: pH adjuster;

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6: Emulsion stabilizer, viscosity controlling;

Octyldodecanol: Long-chain fatty alcohol used as an emollient and emulsifier and also rarely used as solvent and fragrance;

Glyceryl Caprylate: Acts as an emollient and also as an emulsifier;

Caprylyl Glycol: Works as a humectant and skin conditioning agent. It’s a moisturizer and also an anti-microbial;

Xanthan Gum: A polysaccharide derived from glucose or sucrose. It’s able to increase the viscosity of liquids. It can also have skin-conditioning properties;

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer: Thickening, emulsifier, and stabilizing agent. Melts when touches the skin, leaving it velvety soft;

Polyisobutene: It’s a polymer of hydrocarbon isobutylene made from petroleum oil. It’s a thickening and film-forming agent and doesn’t penetrate the skin because it’s got a large molecular size;

Ethylhexylglycerin: A natural preservative that often takes the place of parabens. In other words, it’s a surfactant and preservant derived from glycerin;

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate: A film former and viscosity agent that is often used in gels because it has a strong hydrating power and a very high water-absorbing power. It can help reconstruct the skin and increase its firmness. It also contains a natural fragment of elastin;

Cellulose Gum: It’s a natural ingredient most often used as a thickener and film-forming agent;

Sorbitan Oleate: A monoester of oleic acid and hexitol anhydrides from sorbitol. It’s a fragrance ingredient and surfactant but also primarily used as an emulsifier;

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside: Mild surfactant obtained from fatty alcohols and glucose from vegetable origins. It’s an ECOCERT Certified glucose alkyl ether.

Acne triggers according to Cosdna

Butylene Glycol strikes 1 out of 5,  Cetyl Alcohol 2 out of 5 and Sorbitan Oleate 3 out of 5.

Irritant according to Cosdna

Cetyl Alcohol is the only known one. It strikes 2 out of 5.

Safety according to Cosdna

All the ingredients are green flagged, which means they strike 1 or 2 out of 9, except: Octocrylene and Cyclopentasiloxane (yellow flagged, both 3 out of 9) Homosalate (yellow flagged, 4 out of 9) and Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (yellow flagged, 6 out of 9). Fragrance strikes 1-4 out of 9. There isn’t a single red flagged ingredient.

Packaging

This is the cutest sunscreen bottle I’ve ever had. It’s so tiny and you can carry it everywhere you go, even inside your pocket. It contains 40 mL.

LRM_EXPORT_20170527_104252 (1)

It’s a soft tube, so you don’t have to press it hard to get the product out.

Texture and scent

The texture is like a super watery white gel. The moment when you apply it on your face, you feel its freshness. It’s super moisturizing (I mean it!) but yet super light.

IMG_20170527_102523520

The scent is very good but still not overwhelming. It smells like apricot and I’ve seen some people agreeing with that. When I apply it, the smell disappears and after a few minutes, it leaves a very weak, almost undetectable odor of typical sunscreen.

How to use

Apply evenly over face and neck. Reapply as needed.

As you might know, sunscreen tests are made with 2 mg/cm2 which means 1/4 teaspoon (1.2322304 milliliters) only for your face. Most people I know (let’s say 90%) don’t apply the right quantity of sunscreen because of its texture and feeling on the skin. That’s why I always tell them to find a watery sunscreen because it allows you to apply 1.2 mL without feeling heavy or greasy.

Another problem is about tanned-skin people, like me. I can never use the right quantity of a sunscreen made of 100% inorganic (globally wrongly known as “physical”) filters because it leaves me a horrible white cast. I am always opting for a sunscreen with 100% organic filters (globally wrongly known as “chemical”) or even a sunscreen that uses both organic and inorganic filters as it leaves minimal or no white cast at all even when used the right quantity.

UV Filters

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (aka Octyl Methoxycinnamate and Octinoxate) trade names Eusolex 2292 and Uvinul MC80:

  • Range of UV spectrum covered: UVB;
  • Wavelengths covered: 280-320 nm.

Homosalate:

  • Range of UV spectrum covered: UVB;
  • Wavelengths covered: 295-315 nm.

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, trade name Uvinul A Plus:

  • Range of UV spectrum covered: UVA;
  • Wavelengths covered: maximum of 354 nm

Octocrylene:

  • Range of UV spectrum covered: UVB, short UVA (UVA-2) but not long UVA;
  • Wavelengths covered: 290-350 nm.

All of these UV filters are organics.

Performance

As you might know, this far, the sunscreen is very light, easily spreadable and sits nicely on the skin. I am going to show its transparency.

IMG_20170527_102442944

Above you can see my bare hand.

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This is the amount of sunscreen I applied.

IMG_20170527_102612946

Spreading it…

IMG_20170527_102929037

Do you see how much transparent the protection is? Even though I am tanned, it doesn’t leave a single trace of whiteness or greasy feeling.

Final thoughts

I loved everything about this sunscreen, the feeling on the skin, its capacity of protection without leaving any residue, its hydration power, its antioxidant compounds and its amazing formulation with a lot of antioxidants and possibly skin-lightening natural actives. This sunscreen is a true treatment for the skin because it protects it and also gives a boost of antioxidants to help fight signs of aging and can possibly lighten the skin.

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I highly recommend it if you are looking for a hydrating sunscreen that leaves no greasy residue nor whiteness. It’s perfect for summer and for winter because it’s truly moisturizing but yet it leaves no shine. I don’t recommend if you are allergic to any ingredient, so please, take a deeper look at the ingredient list.

Rate: 5/5

P.S.:  You can buy TYF products in Korea from Official Online Store or offline shops.

In Europe, you can find it on Cult Beauty Website.

In the USA, you can find it online on Ulta Website and in Ulta offline stores and also on eBay and Amazon that ship worldwide.

This product was sent by Thank You Farmer. ALL the opinions are of my own and the review is 100% honest, like all of my others reviews I’ve written here and on Instagram.

4 thoughts on “Review Thank You Farmer Sun Project Light Sun Essence”

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