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Review Swanicoco Bitamin C Calmdown Emulsion

Para português, clique aqui.

I wanted to write the review of this product together with the Skintoner (from the same line) but I changed my mind because the review would have been too long and tiring and it could have affected its quality. That’s why I am writing this one separately.

If you missed my last review (I hope you didn’t because it’s an awesome product) of the Bitamin C Calmdown Skintoner, you can simply click here and it’ll open the link in another tab.

Shall we begin? I highly suggest you read the ingredient analysis!

Bitamin C Calmdown Emulsion

This is an emulsion developed for skins that lack moisture, elasticity, skins that are irritated, rough, or dull. It’s also suitable for sensitive skin. It provides a good amount of nutrient and moisture to the skin, making it plumper, soothed and with a healthy-looking glow.

Ingredient list

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methylpropanediol, Niacinamide, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tetrapeptide-32, Caffeoyl Decapeptide-17, rh-Oligopeptide-1, Saccharomyces/Camellia Japonica Flower/Castanea Crenata Shell/Diospyros Kaki Leaf/Paeonia Suffruticosa Root/Rhus Javanica/Sanguisorba Officinalis Root Extract Ferment Filtrate, Saccharomyces/Ophiopogon Japonicus Root/Panax Ginseng Root/Poria Cocos/Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Ferment Filtrate, Saccharomyces/Viscum Album (Mistletoe) Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Saccharomyces/Imperata Cylindrica Root Ferment Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Malus Domestica (Apple) Fruit Extract, Pyrus Pyrifolia (Pear) Fruit Extract, Musa Sapientum (Banana) Fruit Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Arginine, Cetearyl Glucoside, Sorbitan Olivate, Stearic Acid, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Sodium PCA, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer.

The total number of fermented ingredients: 14.

Analysis of some ingredients

I am going to be explaining some ingredients, they are very similar to the Skintoner but this emulsion contains some different ingredients.

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Rice Ferment Extract): Also known as the famous Pitera, it’s derived from a fermentation process. This ingredient is rich in vitamins, amino acids, minerals and more. Its resemblance is close to the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs). Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (GFF) has been demonstrated to provide a reduction in the appearance of skin pigmentation and dampening of oxidative stress.

Human melanoma cells and normal human melanocytes derived from both light and dark skin were treated with 5% and 10% of GFF every other day and evaluated for melanin content. In human melanoma cells, melanin was reduced by 60% with both dosages within 12 days. In normal human melanocytes, melanin was reduced by 35% and 55%, respectively, within 25 days. It also increased the expression of glutathione S-transferase, a detoxifying enzyme and downstream target of Nrf2 (a protein that regulates the expression of antioxidant proteins that protect against oxidative damage triggered by injury and inflammation). [1]

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate also increased the expression of caspase-14 (dysregulation of caspase-14 expression is implicated in impaired skin barrier formation).  [2]

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate appears to have beneficial effects on skin barrier proteins. Although the exact compounds producing this effect are unknown, GFF may be useful for restoring the decrease of barrier proteins in Th2-mediated skin disorders. [3]

[1] Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate reduces melanin synthesis and oxidative stress in normal human melanocytes;

[2] Human keratinocyte caspase-14 expression is altered in human epidermal 3D models by dexamethasone and by natural products used in cosmetics;

[3] Galactomyces Fermentation Filtrate prevents T helper 2-mediated reduction of filaggrin in an aryl hydrocarbon receptor-dependent manner;

Aloe barbadensis Leaf Extract: Aloe vera is a traditional medicinal plant whose gel has been widely used in skin care because it soothes sunburn, hydrates the skin, reduces the appearance of puffiness, protects the skin and so on. You can find a bunch of interesting studies on Pubmed.

This study reported the protective effects of aloe sterols (one of its active) against UVB-induced photoaging in hairless mice. It resulted in a significant improvement of UVB-induced skin dryness, epidermal thickness, and wrinkle formation.

Cutaneous wound healing is a complex process involving various regulatory factors at the molecular level. Aloe vera is widely used for cell rejuvenation, wound healing, and skin moisturizing. This study reported that Aloesin (from Aloe vera) accelerates skin wound healing. More importantly, aloesin treatment resulted in the activation of Smad and MAPK signaling proteins that are key players in cell migration, angiogenesis, and tissue development;

Olea europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil: It’s naturally rich in vitamins (A and E) and hydroxytyrosol, which has anti-inflammatory effects. It’s an antioxidant and antifungal. It can also inhibit elastase;

In vitro antifungal and anti-elastase activity of some aliphatic aldehydes from Olea europaea fruit;

Glycerin: Also called glycerine or glycerol, glycerin is a skin-replenishing and restoring ingredient. It is a humectant naturally found in the skin;

Ethylhexyl Palmitate: It’s a derivative of palm oil. It is often used as an organic replacement to silicone. It has a dry feel, like most silicones;

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: It’s a mixed triester derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It works as an emollient, penetrating quickly the surface of the skin, providing a lightweight and non-greasy barrier of lubrification. It can also enhance the delivery of vitamins;

Methylpropanediol: It’s an organic glycol that works as a solvent. It can enhance the penetration of ingredients into the skin. It can also hydrate the skin and leave it smooth;

Niacinamide: Niacinamide is an effective skin lightening compound that works by inhibiting melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes. It improves the stratum corneum barrier, decreases transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Also, niacinamide is well tolerated and isn’t subject to oxidation.

A Review of the Range of Effects of Niacinamide in Human Skin;

Polysorbate 60: A thickening agent;

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate: Water soluble and stable form of ascorbic acid (vitamin C) that works as an antioxidant and has a potential effect in brightening an uneven skin tone. It was showed that 1% of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate has a strong antimicrobial effect with a log reduction of 5 after 8 h on P. acnesFurther on in a human in vivo study with 20 subjects a Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate oil in water formulation significantly prevented the UVA-induced sebum oxidation up to 40%.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris;

Allantoin: It has skin soothing, healing and keratolytic (ability to remove excess of skin) properties. It enables the skin to absorb more moisture;

Sodium Hyaluronate: The salt form of hyaluronic acid, a water-binding ingredient that has the ability to fill the spaces between collagen and elastin. Sodium hyaluronate has been used for moisturization and wound healing since its discovery, it can hold up to 1000 its own weight in water;

Tetrapeptide-32: This peptide is known as Elastin Hair Peptide. When applied on the skin, it’s said that it helps increasing elastin;

Caffeoyl Decapeptide-17: It is a peptide used in cosmetics for anti-inflammatory purposes, like treating atopic dermatitis. Nothing about this peptide is available in English, this information I got from a Korean study that I couldn’t understand everything. If I get more information, I will edit this section;

rh-Oligopeptide-1 (Epidermal Growth Factor or EGF): It’s a Nobel Prize winner protein found in the fibroblast cells of the dermal layer and stimulates cells to produce collagen. It stimulates the synthesis of DNA, RNA, hydroxyproline, and hyaluronic acid. It plays an important role in the regulation of cell growth, differentiation, proliferation, and survival. As the protein is applied to the skin, all important tissue regeneration begins. The deficiency of this protein will result in a delay of wound healing, skin aging, and formation of wrinkles, difficult scar healing, age pigment, and more. As we age, our body doesn’t produce as much EGF as it used to.

A study made to check the effects of topical application of the EGF showed that it was effective in reducing fine lines and rhytides, improving skin texture, pore size, and various dyschromatic conditions apparent within the first month of use in subjects with moderate to severe photodamaged and aged skin and the effects continued improving for duration of the study.*

*Improved texture and appearance of human facial skin after daily topical application of barley produced, synthetic, human-like epidermal growth factor (EGF) serum;

Saccharomyces/Camellia japonica Flower/Castanea crenata Shell/Diospyros kaki Leaf/Paeonia suffruticosa Root/Rhus javanica/Sanguisorba officinalis Root Extract Ferment Filtrate: It’s the fermentation of Tsubaki, Korean (or Japanese) Chestnut, Japanese Persimmon, Moutan Cortex, Java Brucea, and Great Burnet by the microorganism Saccharomyces.

Properties of each one separately:

Camellia japonica (Tsubaki) Flower: It is a rich source of antioxidants, vitamins, phytosqualene, and Omega-6 fatty acids.

A study done with isolated compounds from an extract of Camellia japonica flower from Korea was done. The principal constituents significantly inhibited melanogenesis. Camellioside B showed potent inhibition of melanogenesis. Camelliosides tended to enhance proliferation in normal human neonatal skin fibroblasts (enhancers of fibroblast proliferation are thought to be important in the wound-healing process).*

*Melanogenesis inhibitory and fibroblast proliferation accelerating effects of noroleanane- and oleanane-type triterpene oligoglycosides from the flower buds of Camellia japonica;

Castanea crenata (Korean/Japanese Chestnut) Shell: The inner shell of the Castanea crenata has been used as an anti-wrinkle/skin firming agent in East Asia, and preliminary experiments have found that a 70% ethanol extract from this plant material can prevent cell detachment of skin fibroblasts from culture plates. [1] It also has anti-glycation activity. [2]

[1] Effects of the chestnut inner shell extract on the expression of adhesion molecules, fibronectin, and vitronectin, of skin fibroblasts in culture;

[2]Anti-glycation activity of Japanese Chestnut (Castanea crenata) inner skin extract is beneficial for Type 2 Diabetes in a rat model;

Diospyros kaki (Japanese Persimmon) Leaf: Persimmon leaf has a substantial amount of tannins in different forms. Persimmon leaf extract demonstrated anti-wrinkle, and skin-lightening effect “comparable” to that of hydroquinone effect, without any side effects.

Inhibition of enzyme activities and the antiwrinkle effect of polyphenol isolated from the persimmon leaf (Diospyros kaki folium) on human skin;

Paeonia suffruticosa (Moutan Cortex) Root: Possibly anti-inflammatory and antioxidant.

Inhibitors of aldose reductase and formation of advanced glycation end-products (AGE) in Moutan Cortex (Paeonia suffruticosa);

Rhus javanica (Java Brucea): Not sure what part of the plant they use (fruit, leaf…). Synonym of Brucea javanica. It has preventive effects against UVB-induced inflammation and photoaging.  It has been demonstrated that it has a potent preventive activity for skin inflammation and photoaging which occurs via suppression of pathways related to epidermal growth factor receptor.

Preventive effect of Rhus javanica extract on UVB-induced skin inflammation and photoaging;

Sanguisorba officinalis (Great Burnet) Root Extract: Well-known as Ji-Yu in Korea, it has been used as a traditional medicine for centuries. It is known to be effective against many types of allergic skin diseases, including urticaria, eczema, and allergic dermatitis. It contains a compound called Ziyuglycoside I, which has been shown to have anti-wrinkle activity. [1] It was also shown to inhibit the effect of UVB-induced photodamage on rat skin. [2]

[1] Anti-wrinkle activity of Ziyuglycoside I isolated from a Sanguisorba officinalis Root Extract and its application as a cosmeceutical ingredient;

[2] Inhibitory effect of an extract of Sanguisorba officinalis on ultraviolet-B-induced photodamage of rat skin.

As I explained when I reviewed the Calmdown Skintoner, all these ingredients (Tsubaki, Korean Chestnut, Japanese Persimmon, Cortex Moutan, Java Brucea, and Great Burnet) are all together mixed and fermented by the bacteria Saccharomyces. Since all of these ingredients are fermented, the particles become smaller. I can’t know until where the effects of these ingredients, mixed and fermented, go. What I previously showed was the effect of each one of them separately and non-fermented.

Saccharomyces/Ophiopogon japonicus Root/Panax ginseng Root/Poria cocos/Rehmannia glutinosa Root Ferment Filtrate: Once again, it’s the fermentation of Dwarf Lilyturf, Ginseng, Fu Ling, and Sheng Di Huang by the microorganism Saccharomyces.

Properties of each one separately:

Ophiopogon japonicus (Dwarf Lilyturf) Root: Derived from the root of a plant called ja-no-hige (or “snake’s beard”) in Japanese, it is rich in saccharides, known to hydrate the skin. It protects the skin from dryness by boosting the skin’s moisture-retaining ability and brings a more refined texture;

Panax ginseng Root:  Ginseng is the one of the most famous plant extract in Korea (if not the number one!) because it has several skin benefits such as effects in photoaging, skin cancer, dermatitis, hair loss, alopecia to mention but a few. Ginsenosides (active compounds present in Panax ginsengexhibit diverse biological effects, including anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic;

Poria cocos (Fu Ling): Extract derived from a mushroom, which has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing properties. It can regulate skin hydration and calm the epidermal nervous system. It also acts as an astringent, toning and calming agent by balancing the neuropeptides responsible for inflammation. It also offers protection from harmful environmental influences. (Source);

Rehmannia glutinosa (Sheng Di Huang) Root Extract: known in Asia as a traditional herbal medicine with anti-inflammatory, and anti-allergic properties.

Again, all of these ingredients (Dwarf Lilyturf, Ginseng, Fu Ling, and Sheng Di Huang) are mixed together and fermented by the microorganism called Saccharomyces. All of the functions that were explained previously are of each ingredient separately and non-fermented. I can’t know where these effects go when the ingredients are mixed and fermented by Saccharomyces.

Saccharomyces/Viscum album (Mistletoe) Ferment Extract: It’s the extract of the plant Mistletoe fermented by the microorganism Saccharomyces. Mistletoe (non-fermented) is one of the most researched alternatives to treat cancer, and it is frequently prescribed as a complementary therapy to treat cancer, in Europe (FDA doesn’t approve its sale as cancer treatment). I couldn’t find anything regarding its effect on skin but I supposed it can help the skin to heal itself faster;

Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract: Soybean extract fermented by the bacteria Lactobacillus. Soybean is one of the major crops containing antioxidant components such as phenolic acids, tocopherols, phytic acids, trypsin inhibitor, amino acid and isoflavones containing daidzein, genistein, daidzin, and genistin. Fermentation has been reported to cause a general improvement in the natural nutritive values of soybean products, increasing total soluble solids, vitamins, free fatty acids, soluble nitrogen, free amino acids and vitamins E and C. Fermented soybean were shown to have antioxidant and whitening properties.

The comparative evaluation of fermented and non-fermented Soybean extract on antioxidation and whitening;

Saccharomyces/Imperata cylindrica Root Ferment Extract: Commonly known as Cogon Grass, Kunai Grass, or Blady Grass. I’m not sure about this compound. I couldn’t find anything from a reliable source. I’ve seen some websites saying that it has antibacterial, astringent, and intense moisturizing properties;

Vitis vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract: Fruit acids, sugars, minerals, pectin, tannins, proteins, anthocyanins, waxes, flavonoids, xanthophylls, carotene, vitamins, polysaccharides, aromatic substances, and procyanidins are part of its composition. It has skin conditioning and antioxidant properties.

Vitis vinifera (Grape) ingredients as used in cosmetics;

Citrus aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract: It’s a natural astringent with powerful antibacterial properties. A tested material did not induce skin irritation or sensitization.

Safety assessment of citrus fruit-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics;

Malus domestica (Apple) Fruit Extract: It has skin conditioning and antioxidant properties;

Pyrus pyrifolia (Pear) Fruit Extract: Emollient;

Musa sapientum (Banana) Fruit Extract: Emollient;

Oryza sativa (Rice) Extract: Rice bran contains various polyphenolic compounds with antioxidative activities, and it has long been known to inhibit melanogenesis.

It contains oryzanol, a component that acts as a protective agent against UV light-induced lipid peroxidation.  The ferulic acid and its esters present in gamma oryzanol prevent skin aging. Rice bran contains approximately 500 ppm of tocotrienols. Tocotrienols when applied to the skin penetrate and get absorbed rapidly. Majorly they get accumulated at the strata corneum of the skin and act as the first line of defense with their antioxidant property. They stabilize the free radicals generated in the skin when exposed to oxidative rays. They protect the skin against UV-induced skin damage and skin aging and thus help in skin repair.

Health benefits of rice bran – a review;

Calophyllum inophyllum Seed Oil: Also known as Tamanu, this oil is especially recommended for all kinds of burns (sunburns or chemical burns), most dermatoses, postsurgical cicatrization, certain skin allergies, acne, psoriasis, chilblains, skin cracks, dry skin and so on. In cosmetology, it is used in the preparation of regenerative creams. This soothing oil has long been a beauty secret of the Tahitian Vahine.

Tamanu (Calophyllum inophyllum) – the African, Asian, Polynesian and Pacific Panacea;

Arginine: A semi-essential amino acid that is produced naturally by the body. It mainly functions as an antioxidant that helps build collagen production, when applied topically. Orally, it can speed up wound healing;

Cetearyl Glucoside: An emulsifier formed by the condensation of the cetearyl alcohol with glucose. It can be naturally derived from coconut/corn oil or synthesized. It helps the skin and hair retain moisture;

Sorbitan Olivate: Emulsifier based on olive oil and sorbitol;

Rosa damascena (Damask Rose) Flower Oil: Antioxidant, antibacterial properties;

Hydrolyzed Collagen: Water soluble collagen. Collagen molecules are generally too large to penetrate into the skin. It remains outside the surface layer but it can also provide some benefits such as skin hydration, boost skin barrier function, and make a protective film on the skin;

Sodium PCA: It’s a naturally occurring humectant found in human skin that is a derivative of amino acids. Sodium PCA is the salt of pyrrolidone carbonic acid. It has high water absorbing properties and is also considered to be hygroscopic, with the ability to absorb moisture from the air.  It can also bind moisture to cells, and hold several times its weight in water. It delivers moisture to the hair and skin and is often seen as an emollient or humectant in hair conditioners and moisturizers. (Source);

1,2-Hexanediol:  A highly effective and mild coupling agent and humectant. It contains many chemicals in its composition, including Alpha-Lipoic acids, an antioxidant; Chrysin, an anti-inflammatory bioflavonoid; Diosgenin, a maintainer of healthy blood cholesterol levels; Glucosamine Hydrochloride, which slows joint degeneration; and Indole-3-Carbinol, a nutrient that may prevent cancer (Source);

Caprylyl Glycol: Works as a humectant and skin conditioning agent. It’s a moisturizer and also an anti-microbial;

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer:  Commonly found in moisturizers, sunscreens, cleansers and anti-aging products, it contains both hydrophobic and hydrophilic groups allowing it to bind to both water and oil, which makes it useful when combining two phases to create a single one. It is also used as a stabilizer, viscosity enhancer and also can form a film when applied topically;

Acne triggers according to CosDNA

Olive Fruit Oil and Stearic Acid strike 2 out of 5. Ethylhexyl Palmitate strikes 4 out of 5.

Irritants according to CosDNA

The only one is Ethylhexyl Palmitate, it strikes 1 out of 5.

Safety according to CosDNA

All of them strike 1 or 2 out of 9 (they are green flagged). The only ingredient that is yellow flagged is Polysorbate 60, which strikes 3 out of 9.

CosDNA analysis: Swanicoco Bitamin C Calmdown Emulsion.

Packaging

The packaging is the same as the Skintoner, unfortunately.

LRM_EXPORT_20170702_121219

Why? Because this is an emulsion and it would have been better to keep the pump bottle (the previous packaging was a pump bottle but they changed it). I’ve seen some people complaining about it and if you’re the kind of person that likes to put on the face the exact amount of product every day (one pump, let’s say), you might have some difficulties concerning this bottle because the quantity will not always be the same.

I had some issues when I first started using it. When the bottle is full, you’ll have to hit it against your finger to get the product out. Once I’ve used maybe 10% of the product, it started to come out easily without the need of hitting it. So be patient when using this bottle. The more you use, the easier the product will come out.

Texture and scent

The texture is a bit thick but it isn’t silicone-y (this product is silicone-free). It’s thick but watery and runny.

IMG_20170702_113124302

It has the same flowery scent as the Skintoner. It reminds me of peonies. It’s very good and relaxing.

How to use

You can (and should) use it two or more times a day. I use it in the morning and at night.

Just take out the desired amount of product and put on your face after any liquid product, such as FTE, Toner, Essence, Serum…

Performance

I’ve been using this emulsion for over a month. After the first week using this product, I noticed an increase of pimples on my face. Then I decided to stop using it for a while to see if it was its fault. Guess what? It didn’t solve the problem. I realized then that what could be giving me those pimples was a super occlusive mineral oil-based cream. I used to use this cream around my eye area, only. But then I decided to use a tiny amount of it around my whole face. I stopped using this mineral oil-based cream and went back to the emulsion and so far I didn’t experience any break out.

I think the main reason why I thought it could be the emulsion is that it contains an ingredient which CosDNA lists as an acne trigger, as you could see previously. I’ve used so many cosmetics with this ingredient and they didn’t break me out. Anyway, I’m glad it wasn’t this product’s fault because I really like this product. It’s really nourishing and moisturizing, makes my face plumper and locks in the moisture previously added. It smells like a field full of flowers and it’s very relaxing when used at night.

Below, you can see the after.

IMG_20170702_113332762.jpg

After using the product. It’s very hydrated, right? You can see the hydraton’s glow.

Hydration test using Susee Nano Spray Machine

Let’s check the levels of moisture and oil before and after using this emulsion. Just a reminder, oil is very important if you want to have a healthy skin!

Levels of moisture and oil before the product.

screenshot_20170702-114207-e1499010573828.png

 

Levels of moisture and oil after the product.

screenshot_20170702-113826-e1499010696891.png

What do you think? I think it’s very good. Very hydrated!

Final thoughts

This is the first ferment-based emulsion I’ve ever seen and used so far. It’s thick but watery and it’s very well absorbed by my skin, leaving it very plump, hydrated, nourished, and without a single trace of dryness. Along with the moisture and nourishment comes the anti-aging, antioxidant, and whitening effects, making this emulsion very well formulated. Also, this product works as a great Sleeping Pack!

I am very impressed by this product. I knew I’d enjoy it because the ingredient list is magnificent and there isn’t a mistake! I love it so much and I highly recommend it if you don’t have issues with Ethylhexyl Palmitate (check your cream, emulsion, and thick lotion, they probably have it).

I would love if Swanicoco could make this a pump bottle because this isn’t the right bottle for an emulsion.

LRM_EXPORT_20170702_120813

Rate: 4.7/5

I wanted to give it 5 but I am taking 0.1 because it’s not a pump bottle and also 0.2 because I am not a big fan of olive oil (this is personal). I believe there are much better oils out there.

This product was sent by Swanicoco for review purposes. ALL the opinions are of my own and the review is 100% honest, like all of my other reviews I’ve written here and on Instagram.

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