I received these products for free from NeoStrata Canada.
NeoStrata Canada products are totally different from NeoStrata USA, for example. While NeoStrata USA has products with 18% of glycolic acid, NeoStrata Canada has only products with 10% of glycolic acid. The reason, you may ask? The legislation in Canada allows the use of AHAs up to 10% only, which is, in my opinion, a mild concentration.
I received a package from NeoStrata Canada with some goodies inside, and I posted it on the Instagram page.
View this post on Instagram
[PORTUGUÊS mais abaixo] When I walked in to a drugstore I saw Neostrata. I was really curious because they're totally different from the Neostrata products I've seen (those high-strength hydroxyacids). NeoStrata products sold in Canada are suitable for sensitive skin, don't rely on high-strength acids, have a different ingredient list, and also different packagings. I had the chance of receiving some Neostrata products, and also some products from Cliniderm. I was wondering "why did I receive something from Cliniderm?" Then I realized both brands are under license by Sanofi. . ⏺️NeoStrata Glycolic Renew Soothing Cream: Contains 5% encapsulated glycolic acid, shea butter, and many more ingredients. ⏺️NeoStrata Glycolic Renew Soothing Lotion: Contains also 5% of encapsulated glycolic acid. ⏺️NeoStrata Cleansing Foaming Water: It's a cleanser with 2% glycolic acid. It says it has the "right pH" to be more effective. Free of soap. ⏺️Cliniderm Hydra Defense Gel: It's a hydrating gel with some good ingredients. ⏺️Cliniderm Hydra Defense Cream: It's a hydrating cream with also some good ingredients. ⏺️Cliniderm Gentle Cleanser: A face a body cleanser free of soap, parabens, and fragrance. I already introduced the gel moisturizer and the glycolic cream to my routine so I can review them. Have you tried anything from these brands? PR/Gift Português⤵️ . Quando entrei numa farmácia, vi a Neostrata. Eu fiquei curioso porque eles são totalmente diferentes dos produtos da Neostrata que eu tinha visto (aqueles ácidos fortes). Os produtos NeoStrata vendidos no Canadá são adequados para a pele sensível, não dependem de ácidos fortes, têm uma lista de ingredientes diferentes e também embalagens diferentes. Eu tive a chance de receber alguns produtos da Neostrata, e também alguns produtos da Cliniderm. Aí pensei "por que recebi algo da Cliniderm?" Então eu percebi que ambas as marcas estão sob licença da Sanofi. . ⏺️NeoStrata Glycolic Renew Soothing Cream: Contém 5% de ácido glicólico encapsulado, manteiga de karité e muito mais ingredientes. ⏺️NeoStrata Glycolic Renew Soothing Lotion: Contém também 5% de ácido glicólico encapsulado. Continua no segundo comentário.
As you can see, I’ve also received some CLINIDERM products. Both NeoStrata and CLINIDERM are under license by a laboratory called Sanofi.
The products I’m reviewing today are both versions (cream and lotion) of the Glycolic Renew Soothing 5%.
Glycolic acid is the AHA of choice. Its small molecular size makes it effective in removing the build-up of dead cells on the skin surface. 5% glycolic acid encapsulated is an innovative delivery system that accentuates the benefits of glycolic acid without the irritation or tingling commonly associated with the use of AHA ingredients. Ideal for 1st-time users and/or sensitive skin.
Cream: contains 0.4% allantoin for soothing and anti-irritant benefits and 15% of moisturizing shea butter.
Lotion: contains 0.4% allantoin for soothing and anti-irritant benefits and 1% Xymelis 45 to mattify. Oil-free.
- Evens out complexion, while moisturizing;
- Removes build-up of dead cells on the surface of the skin;
- Reveals radiant, younger-looking skin.
Cream: Aqua, Alcohol, Glycolic Acid, Lecithin, Sodium Hydroxide, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Lecithin, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tropolone, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Dimethicone, Allantoin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Fragrance.
Lotion: Aqua, Alcohol, Glycolic Acid, Lecithin, Sodium Hydroxide, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Silica, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Cholesterol, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethiconol, Propanediol, Ximenia Americana Bark Extract, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Lauryl Glucoside, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polydimethylsiloxane, Bis-Vinyl Dimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer, Magnesium Aluminium Silicate, PEG-10 Soy Sterol, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance, Ethylene Brassylate.
Analysis of some ingredients
Some ingredients found in both
Glycolic Acid: Glycolic acid is the smallest α-hydroxy acid (AHA). It may reduce wrinkles, acne scarring, hyperpigmentation and improve many other skin conditions, including actinic keratosis, hyperkeratosis, and seborrheic keratosis. Once applied, glycolic acid reacts with the upper layer of the epidermis, weakening the binding properties of the lipids that hold the dead skin cells together. This allows the stratum corneum to be exfoliated, exposing live skin cells. High concentrations of glycolic acid can increase collagen and hyaluronic acid.
- Glycolic acid treatment increases type I collagen mRNA and hyaluronic acid content of human skin.
- Glycolic acid modulation of collagen production in human skin fibroblast cultures in vitro.
- The effect of glycolic acid on cultured human skin fibroblasts: cell proliferative effect and increased collagen synthesis.
- Glycolic acid peels for the treatment of wrinkles and photoaging.
- Photoprotective and anti-inflammatory effects of topical glycolic acid.
Lecithin: Lecithins are usually phospholipids. It is used in cosmetics as an emollient and water-binding agent. Lecithin also has the ability to restore the skin;
Allantoin: It has skin soothing, healing and keratolytic (ability to remove excess of skin) properties. It enables the skin to absorb more moisture;
Tocopheryl Acetate: Vitamin E. Works as an antioxidant.
Dimethicone: It’s a silicone that works as an anti-foaming agent, skin and hair conditioner and skin protectant. It prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by forming a hydrating barrier on the skin. It can also fill in fine lines/wrinkles on the face, giving it a temporary plump appearance.
Some ingredients found in the cream
Butyrospermum parkii (Shea Butter): Rich in lipids, this butter moisturizes the skin and relieves dry skin;
C13-14 Isoparaffin: Petroleum-derived ingredient that enhances the texture of the product. Helps to keep the skin hydrated;
Glycerin: Functions as a humectant;
Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans: Has the ability to blind with water and to increase depth hydration, improving the firmness and elasticity;
Sodium Hyaluronate: The salt form of hyaluronic acid, a water-binding ingredient that has the ability to fill the spaces between collagen and elastin. Sodium hyaluronate has been used for moisturization and wound healing since its discovery, it can hold up to 1000 its own weight in water;
Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil: It is a non-volatile, non-fragrant plant oil used as an emollient in cosmetics. It consists primarily of triglycerides of linoleic and oleic acids, and it’s an oil rich in vitamin E, making it a powerful antioxidant. Also, it helps maintain the skin barrier and decreases transepidermal water loss.
Some ingredients found in the lotion
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate: An emollient;
Glyceryl Stearate: Derived from palm kernel, vegetable or soy oil and also found naturally in the human body, it acts as a lubricant, which gives the skin a soft and smooth appearance. It slows the loss of water from the skin by forming a barrier on the surface;
Silica: It absorbs oil, sweat;
Cholesterol: An emollient that when applied topically can help maintain the skin’s healthy feel and appearance;
Cetyl Ricinoleate: A fatty acid made from castor oil that works as a conditioner, stabilizer, and film forming agent;
Polysilicone-11, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethiconol, Polydimethylsiloxane, Bis-Vinyl Dimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer: Different types of silicone;
Hydrogenated Polydecene: Synthetic polymer that works as an emollient and skin-softening agent;
Polyisobutene: An ingredient derived from petroleum oil that functions as a thickening and film-forming agent. The molecule is too big to penetrate the skin;
Cetyl Alcohol: It softens and conditions the skin and hair. It’s a fatty alcohol produced either from the end products of the petroleum industry or derived from plants. It works as an emollient, thickener, emulsifier and/or carrying agent;
PEG-10 Soy Sterol: It enhances the appearance of dry or damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness;
Ethylene Brassylate: Synthetic musk-like fragrance.
Acne triggers according to CosDNA
Cream: The only one is Dimethicone. It strikes 1 out of 5.
Lotion: PEG-100 Stearate, Dimethicone, and Polydimethylsiloxane strike 1 out of 5. Cetyl Alcohol and Stearic Acid strike both 2 out of 5.
Irritants according to CosDNA
Lotion: PEG-10 Soy Sterol strikes 1 out of 5. Cetyl Alcohol strikes 2 out of 5.
Safety according to CosDNA
Cream: Sodium Hydroxide, Laureth-7, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, and Tocopheryl Acetate are yellow flagged and strike 3 out of 9. Glycolic Acid, Polyacrylamide, and Phenoxyethanol are yellow flagged and strike 4 out of 9. Fragrance strikes between 1 and 4 out of 9.
Lotion: Sodium Hydroxide, PEG-100 Stearate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Tocopheryl Acetate, and Polysorbate-20 are yellow flagged and strike 3 out of 9. Glycolic Acid, PEG-10 Soy Sterol, and Phenoxyethanol are yellow flagged and strike 4 out of 9. Fragrance strikes between 1 and 4 out of 9.
Both products come in an airless pump bottle, which is great!
These bottles keep the ingredients away from oxidation.
Texture and scent
The cream has a thick texture while the lotion is more fluid.
Both scents are horrible. The scent of them reminds me of olives, but not in a good way.
How to use
Apply 1 or 2 times daily. First-time users should start with the 5% glycolic acid to build skin tolerance. Once the skin is conditioned, use 10% glycolic acid if tolerated. Use once a day for the first week and then once or twice a day as needed if tolerated. Prior to sun exposure, use sunscreen on areas treated with AHAs.
I started using the cream during the morning but I wasn’t comfortable with the glowy finish it was leaving on my skin. The texture is great, the moisturizing effect too, it doesn’t dry out my skin, the scent is not nice. In my opinion, it’s really best suitable for people with normal to dry skin. I prefer using it during the night.
The lotion has a liquid but yet thick texture. My skin easily absorbs it and it leaves a matte finish because it has some types of silicone. No glow. Doesn’t dry out my skin but doesn’t hydrate as much as the cream. I like using it during the day because it’s not heavy and doesn’t make my skin oily.
One thing I can’t deny about both of them (cream and lotion) is that the exfoliating power is good even though it’s only 5% glycolic acid. It’s not something instantly, it takes time. After one week using the cream, I felt my skin slightly brighter and smoother. The effects were the same using the lotion. I haven’t experienced itching or burning sensation. I asked about the pH of this product but the person who sent me the products didn’t have this information.
Hydration test using Susee Nano Spray Machine
I just wanted to show the levels of water and oil.
- Before applying the product: 48.6% of water and 32.5% of oil.
- After applying the product: 60.4% of water and 18.9% of oil.
- Before applying the product: 47.9% of water and 32.0% of oil.
- After applying the product: 66.1% of water and 20.7% of oil.
Both products are good if your skin is sensitive or if you’re new to acids. 5% of glycolic acid can provide a gentle exfoliation and light brightening effect. If you’re already used to acids, like me, I’d go directly to the 10% of glycolic acid.
Rate: Cream 3.8/5; Lotion 4/5.
This product was sent by NeoStrata Canada for review purposes. All the opinions and research are done by myself without any kind of influence by the brand. This review is 100% honest, like all others that I’ve written here and on Instagram.