Review Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream

Clique aqui para português.

Drunk Elephant is a brand developed by a lady called Tiffany Masterson. According to her, she created the brand because she had “all sorts of skin issues: combo, oily-in-the-T-zone, ‘sensitive’ (or so I thought), occasionally break out prone, out-of-balance, with mild rosacea and visible pores“. She said that she “was a frustrated, confused brand-hopper searching for a solution” and that “nothing ever really worked and if it did, it wasn’t for long“.

The brand poses as a “Hi, there! I’m a natural brand. I mean no harm” kind of thing. It uses both natural and synthetic ingredients. It’s a cruelty-free brand and some products are vegan.

One of their most popular products is the vitamin C serum (C-Firma). A 15% pure vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) with two forms of hyaluronates, pumpkin enzyme, and more. However, this is not the product I am reviewing.

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[PORTUGUÊS mais abaixo] First impressions of @drunkelephantskincare Protini Polypeptide Cream. This product will be release next year (January I guess) but I got to try it before. This is a cream with some proteins and Drunk Elephant says it was created "with crazy levels of amino acids, signal peptides and safe, synthetic growth factors (the good kind)". The bottle is the same as the Lala Retro one (pump type). The cream itself is very soft and hydrating. It's so light that I've been using it during the day. I definitely feel like I'm not in Brazil anymore because the thought of using a cream during the day has never occurred to me. This is WAY lighter than Lala. A friend told me that her skin didn't like this cream too much. She said her makeup doesn't look as good and it makes her skin slightly oily. But she said she likes it as a day cream. Have you ever tried anything from Drunk Elephant? I'm very interested in their vitamin C product but it's 100 bucks. Full review coming soon. Português⤵️ . Primeiras impressões sobre o Protini Polypeptide Cream da @drunkelephantskincare. Esse produto só será lançado ano que vem (em janeiro, creio eu). Este é um creme com algumas proteínas e a Drunk Elephant diz que foi criado "com níveis loucos de aminoácidos, peptídeos de sinal e fatores de crescimento seguros e sintéticos (do tipo bom)". A embalagem é a mesma que a do Lala Retro, da mesma marca (tipo pump). O creme em sí é muito macio e hidratante. É tão leve que o uso durante o dia. Eu definitivamente sinto que não estou mais no Brasil porque a ideia de usar um creme durante o dia nunca havia me ocorrido. Este creme é MUITO mais leve do que o Lala Retro. Uma amiga me disse que sua pele não gostou muito deste creme. Ela disse que a maquiagem não fica tão boa e que deixa sua pele ligeiramente oleosa. Mas ela disse que gosta dele como um creme pra usar durante o dia. Já usaram algo da Drunk Elephant? Estou muito interessado na vitamina C, mas custa 100 dólares. Resenha completa vindo em breve.

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I am reviewing Protini Polypeptide Cream. I got this cream in December, one month before its release date.

Description

This breakthrough protein moisturizer combines an unprecedented array and concentration of signal peptides, growth factors, supportive amino acids and pygmy waterlily for visible and immediate improvement in the appearance of skin’s tone, texture, and firmness. Protini’s proprietary formula delivers younger, revived-looking skin, almost from the first application. Lines, wrinkles and signs of sun-damage appear reduced; depleted skin feels strengthened and moisturized.

Ingredient list

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Bacillus/Soybean/ Folic Acid Ferment Extract, Nymphaea Alba Root Extract, sh-Oligopeptide-1, sh-Oligopeptide-2, 
sh-Polypeptide-1, sh-Polypeptide-9, sh-Polypeptide-11, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14
, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Alanine, Arginine, Glycine, Histidine
, Isoleucine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Serine, Threonine, Valine, Acetyl Glutamine, Coconut Alkanes
, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Aspartic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Lecithin, Butylene Glycol
, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, PCA, Sorbitan Isostearate, Carbomer
, Polysorbate 20
, Polysorbate 60, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Isomalt, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopherol, Sodium Benzoate, Phenylpropanol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Symphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract.

Analysis of some ingredients

Dicaprylyl Carbonate: A plant-derived fat. It works by providing a protective film and enhancing the lipid layer of the skin. It is often categorized as a dry emollient because it makes skin soft and smooth without a greasy residue. It emulsifies easily and facilitates the application of slow-spreading ingredients;

Glycerin: Helps to hydrate the skin;

Cetearyl Alcohol: Fatty alcohol that is made from a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It can be derived naturally from coconut or synthesized. It works as an emollient, texture enhancer, carrying agent…;

Cetearyl Olivate: It’s an ester of cetearyl alcohol and the fatty acids derived from olive oil that helps soften the skin and hair. It’s mostly an emulsifier;

Sorbitan Olivate: Emulsifier based on olive oil and sorbitol;

Sclerocarya birrea (Marula) Seed Oil: Marula oil. Contains high levels of vitamin E, phenolic compounds, and flavonoids, omegas 6 and 9. It helps to moisturize and nourish the skin;

Bacillus/Soybean/ Folic Acid Ferment Extract: Folic acid naturally fermented from soybeans. Soybean is one of the major crops containing antioxidant components such as phenolic acids, tocopherols, phytic acids, trypsin inhibitor, amino acid and isoflavones containing daidzein, genistein, daidzin, and genistin. Folic acid might help to decrease fine lines;

Nymphaea alba (White Water Lily) Root Extract: It contains alkaloids, flavonoids, and ascorbic acid, thus having an antibacterial, tonifying and anti-inflammatory activity;

sh-Oligopeptide-1 (Epidermal Growth Factor or EGF): It’s a Nobel Prize winner protein found in the fibroblast cells of the dermal layer and stimulates cells to produce collagen. It stimulates the synthesis of DNA, RNA, hydroxyproline, and hyaluronic acid. It plays an important role in the regulation of cell growth, differentiation, proliferation, and survival. As the protein is applied to the skin, all important tissue regeneration begins. The deficiency of this protein will result in a delay of wound healing, skin aging, and formation of wrinkles, difficult scar healing, age pigment, and more. As we age, our body doesn’t produce as much EGF as it used to.

A study made to check the effects of topical application of the EGF showed that it was effective in reducing fine lines and rhytides, improving skin texture, pore size, and various dyschromatic conditions apparent within the first month of use in subjects with moderate to severe photodamaged and aged skin and the effects continued improving for duration of the study.

Improved texture and appearance of human facial skin after daily topical application of barley produced, synthetic, human-like epidermal growth factor (EGF) serum;

sh-Oligopeptide-2: It’s usually found in blood vessels. It’s said that it “supports the proliferation of fibroblasts that synthesize skin matrix components including collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid“. I couldn’t find any study about it;

sh-Polypeptide-1, sh-Polypeptide-11: It’s said that both of them help to “support the production of collagen and elastin”. There’s nothing I could find supporting these claims;

Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14 + Heptapeptide-15 PalmitateThese two peptides, together, exert anti-aging activity, according to a study.

Cosmetic composition for anti-aging.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7: This is an ingredient developed by Sederma and marketed as Rigin™. “The ability of Rigin™ to down-regulate IL-6 was compared to DHEA in vitro in both resting and inflamed cells and the two actives were comparable. Marketing materials related to Rigin™ indicate that this reduction in IL-6 can produce increased skin firmness, smoothness, and elasticity.

Bioactive peptides: signaling the future.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1: It might have effects on collagen, and skin pigment. It’s still under investigation;

Alanine, Arginine, Glycine, Histidine
, Isoleucine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Serine, Threonine, Valine, Acetyl Glutamine, Aspartic Acid: A bunch of amino acids that can help the skin to look healthy;

Coconut Alkanes: A solvent emollient obtained by the reduction and hydrogenation of a mixture of fatty acids derived from coconut oil;

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate: It’s a mixture of esters from coconut alcohol with caprylic acid and capric acid. It has skin conditioning and emollient proprieties;

Sodium Hyaluronate: The salt form of hyaluronic acid, a water-binding ingredient that has the ability to fill the spaces between collagen and elastin. Sodium hyaluronate has been used for moisturization and wound healing since its discovery, it can hold up to 1000 its own weight in water;

Linoleic Acid: Also known as an omega-6 fatty acid, it was shown that this compound helps to decrease the size of follicular casts and microcomedones, making it a good compound for acne-prone people. It was also shown that it might help to lighten ultraviolet hyperpigmentation of the skin.

Digital image analysis of the effect of topically applied linoleic acid on acne microcomedones;

Linoleic acid and α-linolenic acid lightens ultraviolet-induced hyperpigmentation of the skin.

Linolenic Acid: Also known as an omega-3 fatty acid, it conditions and helps to repair the skin, and can also lighten UV hyperpigmentation;

Linoleic acid and α-linolenic acid lightens ultraviolet-induced hyperpigmentation of the skin.

Lecithin: Lecithins are usually phospholipids. It is used in cosmetics as an emollient and water-binding agent. Lecithin also has the ability to restore the skin;

Sodium Lactate: Sodium lactate is the natural salt derived from lactic acid. It is naturally produced in the skin. It works an exfoliant, a pH adjuster, a humectant and also preservative;

Sodium PCA: It’s a naturally occurring humectant found in human skin that is a derivative of amino acids. Sodium PCA is the salt of pyroglutamic acid. It has high water absorbing properties and is also considered to be hygroscopic, with the ability to absorb moisture from the air.  It can also bind moisture to cells, and hold several times its weight in water. It delivers moisture to the hair and skin and is often seen as an emollient or humectant in hair conditioners and moisturizers. (Source);

Tocopherol: Vitamin E. An antioxidant and preservative.

Acne triggers according to CosDNA

Butylene Glycol strikes 1 out of 5. Cetearyl Alcohol and Tocopherol strike 2 out of 5.

Irritants according to CosDNA

Carbomer strikes 1 out of 5. Cetearyl Alcohol and Tocopherol strike 2 out of 5.

Safety according to CosDNA

PCA, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 60, and Sodium Benzoate are yellow flagged and strike 3 out of 9. Sodium Lactate and Phenoxyethanol are yellow flagged and strike 4 out of 9.

CosDNA analysis: Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream.

Packaging

The packaging is a pump jar. It’s the very first product that I am reviewing that has this type of jar. It’s very hygienic. You just have to pump it with your two fingers and the product will come up. It’s an airless type of pump jar.

 

It’s not something unique, though. I know brands like Dr. Dennis GrossKate Somerville, and others use this type of jar. And I appreciate it! So easy to use, and it keeps the product from coming in contact with the air.

Texture and scent

I love the ingredient list. However, I feel like I love the texture the most. It’s super soft.

img_20180113_09412381014786048.jpg

It doesn’t have any scent but all these ingredients together give a super light natural scent of raw coconut meat. I’ve asked some people if they feel the same and they told me they don’t, but well, I do smell a hint of coconut meat.

How to use

Apply morning and night to clean, dry skin for a vital dose of protein and replenishing moisture the skin needs to retain its youthful appearance. Tip: We like to mix it up, so add a shot of Protini to any DE serum, cream or oil.

Performance

I’ve been using this cream for over a month during the daytime. It is lightweight enough to be used on my skin even after having previously used four products. It makes my face smoother, hydrated, and slightly plumped.  It doesn’t make my face oily, but it doesn’t leave a matte finishing. The finishing is slightly glowy.

This cream is much lighter than Lala Retro (from the same brand). It’s more suitable if you have normal to oily skin, or if you prefer lighter creams. I also find it to be more anti-aging than Lala. Even with that minus degrees weather outside, this cream does a great job hydrating my skin. Thumbs up.

Hydration test using Susee Nano Spray Machine

Of course, I had to use my moisture meter.

  • Before applying the product: 47.8% of water and 32.0% of oil.
  • After applying the product: 60.3% of water and 18.9% of oil.

Final thoughts

With a pH of 4.0 (according to the brand) and an ingredient list full of beneficial compounds, this cream does a nice job hydrating my skin, making it smoother, softer and slightly plumper. I can’t tell about anti-aging because I’ve just turned 22. It also doesn’t contain silicones (if you don’t like them).

The price tag isn’t appealing but if you consider that there are many products on the market with a poor ingredient list charging you over one hundred, you will see this price is not that bad.

lrm_export_20180113_0933121149651245.jpg

Rate: 4.5/5

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